Climbing Shoe Review: Five Ten Dragon
- Kevin Dumapit
- Mar 26, 2015
- 3 min read
If you are frustrated with your climbing and haven't bought a new shoe in a while, then consider upgrading to a pair of new shoes. Think about it: from the minute you buy a shoe, to the minute it gets destroyed, time passes by and you gain technique. As the shoe tends to wear over time, its really hard to keep applying the techniques you have practiced so hard to master. If you can actually toe into something with a worn down shoe and still climb well, imagine what it would feel like with a new shoe.
For the last 5 years, my primary go to shoe has been the Five Ten Dragon. Like its name, these babies are a beast. Lets talk about sizing first. I love how simple it is to fit these: either pick your street shoe size for a snug fit or go a half size down for that aggressive tear-jerker fit. After about a week of every other day climbing for three hours in the gym, they break in.
They have a decent downturn but not as crazy as some LaSportiva models that have that P3 technology which wraps around the arch of your foot. For me, that type of shoe is uncomfortable. The simplicity of this shoe is what keeps me going. They are light at 190g a shoe, stealth C4 rubber is on of the softest and stickiest on the market and they just look damn cool. The only gripe I have about the fit is the heel cup. I wish it was a little wider like the anasazi heel and not as narrow. Even so, the tight fit keeps them from sliding off even after a year of use.
But how do they perform you might ask? They are amazing actually...so amazing it is like you replaced your feet with talons. The toe on the Dragons hook onto mostly anything I could stand on. They really shine on steeps and overhangs. You can dig and claw your way through any of that. I remember getting these shoes after climbing in Mad Rock Flash 1.0's for a good year (which was an awesome beginner shoe. The new one does not do justice). Wow what a difference. I bumped up two consistent V-grades switching to the Dragons. Maybe you can too?
What you really don't want to do is climb slab in them. I know I know, a lot of people still climb those type of faces in these shoes and you would be right. Preferably, at $160 a pair, I use a flatter shoe or I stay away from slabs / flats. I Think I'd like them to last.
Resoles are also great on them and will allow one or two resoles. Best part is that you dont have to break them in after resoling. I wouldn't go past that number because by that point, the toe may be fine but everything else is probably falling apart.
Overall, I give this shoe a 4.5 out of 5 only because the heel cup could definitely be better. These have served me well over the years and I find, they will keep serving me well.
Other models like this one: Blackwing (Currently available / strap), Team (Currently available / slipper strap combo), Hornet (Discontinued Lace up / Same last / mystique rubber), V10 (Discontinued Slipper/ same last)
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